Cleanliness is next to godliness

A clean work station, a clean beauty room, a clean Tech, clean freshly sterilised tools, housed in a sterile environment and most important clean hands on your tech. The towel head piece should be replaced after each client and the lay down linens/bedding replaced every second or third.

Also I do encourage for your tech to have clean, short, non painted nails. After all their hands are right near your eyes and what you cant easily see you cant guarantee is clean.

Time after time…

I see things pop up every now and again about how long it ‘should’ take to complete a full set (or fill) of eyelash extensions. Well the honest answer is as long as it takes for that tech to preform a perfect, natural lash friendly, ‘just as you asked’ set of extensions. I must admit this talk of a required ‘time line’ does my head a little. There is not set time as there is no standard set of eyelashes or extensions. All clients are different all sets are different…

Further more tech’s skill and application comfort level has a lot to do what application time and end result. You should always have their full attention on you, after all you are paying for their time. So this means not taking calls, not replying to messages, not talking to anyone other than you (and politely to the friend you occasionally bring by) and not leaving to “quickly” do whatever else is on their to do list. The only real reason to leave the room at any time is to of course if they need to grab more supplies for you and your lashes.

I’ve heard some horror stories… anything from the tech fighting over the phone on loud speaker with her partner to eating chicken wings while completing a set….(EEWWW! And wow, you need 2 hands at all time for this job)

I don’t like it…

You should also feel conformable to discuss likes and dislikes about your previous set with your Tech without the fear of offending them. At each appointment you tech will/should engage with you about the previous set, in this space you should feel comfortable to discuss any concerns, questions or suggestions for that set and of course any changes you would like to see. Now your Tech should be able to provide you with a comprehensive re-cap of your last appointment, what products/glue was used, size, style, length etc. and you can build from there. Remember, these are your lashes and you are paying for a service.

And most importantly, we Techs should always be build our skill set and learning. 

Speaking of learning…

Just like in any profession, all awesome craftsman should be regularly up-skilled and refreshed. I like to complete a new (or refresher) course at least ever 12 months or so. Not necessarily because I feel I need it but with the eyelash extension industry still being new, it and its products, techniques are developing all the time.

The best thing you and your tech can do for each other is have a clear and open channel of dialogue. This will ensure you end up with perfect lashes just as you asked. After all a happy client is a pleased technician.

Have you ever laid on my beauty table and wondered what on earth I’m doing?…
Well here’s a explanation to what I do, how your lashes are treated and how fills are completed so you should know what you can expect.

1) Clean em’ up…

First and so important is the clean. Each eye and all lashes, natural and extensions need to be cleaned from skin cells, make up, environmental substances and any other foreign bodies that our eyes and lashes may have come into contact with. The clean is to ensure a few things a) your eyes area is clean, avoiding build up from bacteria’s that cause irritations b) the new extensions have a clean base to sit on from the start, avoiding premature shedding due to glue cracks or lifting.

Hot tip: The day of your appointment jump into the shower and give those eyes and extensions a good old washing… This ensures that all the bad bits are removed and washed off and any extensions that are wiggling their way off will gently wash off your natural lashes.

2) Happy and healthy

Next on the agenda is a health check of your natural lashes. There are 3 main signs of lash stress that I check for, First, any thinning of the natural lashes. Your natural lashes should remain the same or very similar width over the eye lid, only thinning as the natural lash line does i.e. nearer to the inner eye. Secondly, any gaps that have formed along your lash line. Gaps are an induction of forced shedding (so the natural lash being pulled out from the follicle long before it was ready to naturally shed. Thirdly, what’s referred to as ‘Sizzling’ This is were the natural lash looks almost burnt and is left in a kind of zig-zag shape over the entire length of the lash.
If any of this signs are noticed I will discuss the best cause of action with you before we proceed with you in-fill.

3) The Flick off

Once all sparkly and clean I use my tweezers to test all the remaining extensions gently flicking them at the base to see if there is any gaps, weakening or cracks in the glue. If the extensions stability is in anyway compromised I bend the extensions lightly back and a forward to completely break the seal and remove the extension. Then I move onto the next one.

4) Treatment

Once all the remaining extensions have been tested, I brush a light lash repairing treatment over your natural lashes to help maintain the condition and integrity of your beautiful lashes. 

5) Protein remover/Lash prep

In preparation for the new extensions I wash your lashes in a protein remover. This provides a clean base for the new extensions to adhere to providing a long lasting bond.

6) Application of new extensions

Once you are all cleaned and prepped, I start with replacing extensions on your ready lashes, filling in all gaps and creating a full fresh new look.

7) Sweet, sweet Serum and a quick blow out

Once all gaps have been filled and your lashes are looking full, flirty and luscious, I treat your lashes to a healthy dose of protective serum. This acts like a plastic pocket over your natural lashes and your newly set extensions, protecting them from the dust, dirt and oils of every day life and environment. Completed off with a nice little drying session, setting and sealing the glue, extensions and serum.

The tips and tricks

There are a handful of ways to help ensure you get great wear out of your extensions, including correct grooming, washing and make up removal.

I think we all know that Oil is one of the main contributor to extensions prematurely falling off as it damages the bond between extension, natural and glue pod. This can come from skin, hair (fringes in particular), facial products, make up and of course everyday pollution. Your extensions are bound to come into contact with oil over the course of your day to day actives so it more about limiting the time your extensions spend ‘sitting in’ the oil then completely avoiding it.

 

Sleep extension friendly (easier said than done)

Sleeping on your back instead of your side or worse yet your front/face helps to prevent stress on your extensions and natural lashes. It also helps to prevent the extension getting kinks in them or loosing the bond between natural lash and extension. This is most important directly after your lash appointment and for a few days after.

 

Hey!! Go Gentle!

Also (extension or no extensions) be kind to your lashes. Gentle wipe all make up off with a soft make up wipe, no rubbing. Or better yet take your spoolie into the shower with a little baby shampoo on it and give them a groom and wash.

 

You! Yes you! Fingers off them!!

Don’t twist, pull, pluck or fiddle with your extensions. This puts extra stress on the natural lashes and can cause premature shedding. It will also add oil deposits into the lashes and can cause the base of the extension to lift. So if they are moving in unflattering ways, groom them back into line.

 

Speaking of….Groom them.

This helps to prevent any of your extensions getting criss-crossed or out of place. Gently use you spoolie to maneuver your extensions back into place. You can brush under or in an over action, either is fine. Just be gentle.

All about your eyelash growth

On average you have 151 eyelashes on each eye. Most peoples lashes grow in 2 to 3 rows along the eyelid (think like sharks teeth).

Your natural lashes have a life span of 60-90 days and grow in 3 stages Anagan (Phase 1), Catagen (Phase 2) and Talagen (Phase 3). Ideally, if we can attach your eyelash extensions to your natural lashes while they are in your in the Catagen stage you would have a lush full set of eyelashes extensions for weeks on end, however most extensions are attached to your lashes in the Talagen stage which is why your extensions have a minimal life span.

As you can see from the diagram above, when your eyelashes are in the Talagen phase they are detached from the hair follicle (base) and loose within the hair shaft. This means the lash is ready to fall out and therefore any extension applied to your natural lash will also fall. Extensions should not be attached to your lashes if they are in Anagen as the lash is weak and still forming, these lashes need time (a good week or two) to become strong and move into the Catagen phase.

 

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Taking care of your natural lashes

Caring for your natural lashes is important and can help to stimulate growth. Dry brushing or grooming your lashes helps to stimulate the hair follicle and encourage the growth process.

Using lash serums (now this is a tad controversial) can also encourage growth. Growth serums act as a hair fertiliser, providing a good foundation for new growth and lashes in the Anagen stage to build into strong lashes. Now, lash serums often promise the world…..long, more volume, darker, result in 14 days but honestly these promises are luke warm at best. Although, I must say, in my experiences (and what I have seen on my clients) the serums can make your lashes darker (mostly due to the serums having a tiny bit of dye in them) and help with encouraging new stronger growth, they do not however, and once again in my experience, give you more or longer lashes.

Using Almond oil can also stimulate growth. Simply brush a little into your lashes with your spooly (groomer) can help the growth process. This works well for brow growth too.